NEWLANDER CAMPERVANS

Repairing

A very brief description of how a Newlander in my opinion is built, take a large sheet of ply, next some 2X1" timber build the basic frame including the luton, fabricate out of chipboard the front and rear top curved panels, and cover the inside with a faced ply, using the same 2x1 make the cupboards seating/bed partition walls and again cover in ply, all the wiring is then installed behind the panels from the outside and the plumbing from the inside, the fibreglass and aluminium panels on the outside are then fixed using glue, and on the edges a beading over the places it is screwed, neat folds make a watertight joint where the panels meet. Of course in this process windows doors and fitting are put in. I know this is very simplified and there is a lot more work involved and basically its what I have found as I have took various things to bits to repair, So if you happen to know different or have actually been involved in the building please contact me.

Rusty screws and bolts, A few tips.
Screws, Spray with a good penetrating oil and leave for a couple of hours, using a good quality screwdriver or bit tighten it a tiny bit and then try  and unscrew while pushing down hard, if this does not work and its a Philips if you have room to get a metal saw in then cut a slot and try with a flat blade driver, if this fails then drilling out is the only solution, using s small drill bit drill a pilot hole in the centre of the screw and then try and gently remove as much as the screw as possible the drill will want to take the easy route through the timber so you have to be really gentle and patient, of course if you have no need to use existing screw holes then you can just drill the head off.

Nuts and Bolts. It's well worth using penetrating oil at least a day before you intend to do the work, and to keep spraying it as often as you can, once again a good spanner or socket is well worth investing in, a long bar is also useful for extra leverage, getting some heat on it helps but is quite risky depending on where the nut is and finally if all else fails a nut splitter may be the only answer.

Damp.

If you manage to find a classic camper that has no damp then either its been restored or never used being kept in a heated garage, damp will always be a issue with classic campervans due to the very nature of what they are designed to do, as soon as you begin to cook in one, because of the lack of double glazing, condensation runs of the windows and wallboards, especially when it is cold outside, so over the years certain areas mostly out of sight Your pretty sure to find some damp.

The Newlander is basically like any coachbuilt the only difference is, its built more like a caravan then added to a chassis, hence why there is no access from the cab to the back except by leaving the cab and going through the side door, but the principles are the same for treating damp.

Toilet
I found there was not much point in just trying to repair a damp panel as is all you are doing is trapping the damp in. This became clear when I began to strip the toilet compartment out, The aluminium panel on the back lower corner outside had started to come apart. and when I started to prod around I found the screws that where supposed to hold the corner together had totally rusted away. So I proceeded to take all the fittings and boxing out, and upon doing so I found the panels where rotten and just crumbled away in my hands to about halfway up the wall. The timbers behind also crumbled away, obviously being the bathroom was the main reason for the extensive damp, fortunately the floor was undamaged, my original plan had been just to cut the panel as far as the damp went , but I decided to remove all the panels, although it seemed a bit drastic at the time I soon realised I had made the right choice as I found a bit more rot on a couple of timbers.
I then set about replacing any rotten timbers and rebuilding the corner that was giving me problems on the outside. I think the hardest part was the lack of room and the fact I am not exactly skinny, I then renewed the glass fibre and instead of using wood panels I decided to use plastic although a bit heavier makes it  very easy to clean, you can virtually hose the inside and the water runs away through the shower plug hole. The most satisfying part was doing the corner out side new screws into the replaced timber soon pulled the corner back together . It is at this point I should point out that I forgot to mark in the toilet where the new timbers where and as the panels are glued , at the time I had no reason to mark where they where only when I came to put in fittings I realised my mistake and spent a long while try to detect the timbers sorted it in the end but what a pain.

The rear corner toilet side had come apart, when I first had it I just tried to rescrew it with larger screws, I soon realised the timbers was rotten	Finished toilet compartment	Lift up sink was a neccesity to be able to use the loo		Because its lined with plastic sheets the sealent on joins makes it very easy to wash out.

 

Luton
After returning from touring for a couple of weeks, I noticed that the panel on the underneath of the luton was bowing down, due probably to the weight I had been carrying on top, So I took everything out and removed one of the panels that make the base, once again near the front luton window the timber had rotted, really didn't surprise me as the window had tons of sealant round it so it must have been leaking at some time. also I removed the wallpaper that had been stuck over the side panels and revealed a well rotted piece of wallboard so I removed anything that was rotted right up to the window frame, really at this point I should have removed the window and resealed it but due to the awful weather I have left that on my to do list. all the aluminium is held by screws behind a black plastic strip that is pushed onto a aluminium edging strip, so when you remove the black plastic strip the screw heads can be seen, this was the reason the luton had bowed the screws that should hold the luton up had disintegrated and the weight I had up there had pushed it down. So I set about replacing the timbers ( I forgot to mention I use tanalised timber less chance of rotting ) . I beefed it up to with more timbers than had been used originally  but used lighter boards, the aluminium is now better supported and no longer bows down. The only problem I have now is the cab roof is rusty and needs repainting thinking maybe a behind the radiator roller.

The luton repaired, it was touching the cab roof before the repair.	The front luton window loads of sealant, will need to remove it and reseal it in properly when I get time.

 

Rust around the cab

Just to show how much work needs to be done on the cab not looking forward to attempting this as I have found I lack the patience to get it right. Up to now in the cab area I took a load of wiring out that connected the radio that I removed from the rear and various disused wires to the back ,not original and replaced in the rear with a split charge relay and a leisure battery, Fitted a carpet and inertia reel seatbelts what a difference from the fixed belts it had originally,

Filler coming away around the door	Dont know quite what this is just a round piece of rust coming away on the drivers door.	Speaks for itself going I am trying to get a new door but I will try and repair this one.	Might struggle getting the bolts out of this.	Seats had been recovered before I bought it.		Fuse box and one of the 3 plugs I fitted this ones to charge the leisure battery.
Split charge relay this is all under the seat,

 

Hints and tips on buying a camper

If you are planning to buy a old or classic camper I will try and offer some advice you may be able to use, based on a lot of years and having my fingers burned a few times.

Are you just starting out in motorhoming? Attracted to the idea but not sure what type of motorhome will suit you?

A good starting point is to understand the different types of motorhome - there are three main types of design.

1. Hightop Van Conversions

Often referred to as campervans, van conversions are generally the smallest and cheapest type of motorhome - which can be an advantage.

Based on so-called panel vans, such as the Ford Transit and the Fiat Ducato, they are generally only a little larger than a family car and are relatively easy to drive, manoeuvre and park - unlike some of their bigger cousins.

Modern conversions are usually very well specified - with heating, toilet, kitchen, running water and often a shower. The only catch is that all of these things are packed into a relatively small space - great for driving but sometimes a little cramped for living in.

Van conversion motorhomes are ideal for the more adventurous or for short breaks, but not necessarily the best choice for luxury or for families.

2. C-Class or Coachbuilt Motorhomes

Coachbuilt motorhomes (sometimes known as Class-C motorhomes) are effectively caravans built onto the back of a van cab and chassis - it may sound a bit Heath Robinson, but these are extremely well made, cleverly-designed and comfortable. They also offer surprising amounts of space, especially when it comes to sleeping berths.

A coachbuilt is probably the best choice for a family, with the overcab area providing ideal sleeping accommodation for children, and the larger interiors giving enough room for 4-6 people to sit and eat.

These motorhomes also tend to have larger kitchens and bathrooms - their extra width helps create more spacious layouts.

3. A-Class or Integrated Motorhomes

The luxury liners of the motorhome world, A-Class motorhomes are purpose-built from the chassis up - apart from the driving controls, there is no trace of "van" about these vehicles - instead they are luxury motorised homes. They are usually a similar size to C-Class motorhomes, but often have only two or three berths - designed for adults to travel in considerable comfort, rather than for fitting large families.

Of course, there are exceptions and A-class motorhomes offering 4-6 berths can also be found. Historically not so popular in the UK, they are becoming more common and have always been so in Europe.

I Almost Forgot…RVs

In principle, American RVs (Recreational Vehicles) are the same as A-Class motorhomes. The difference is in their scale and in the base vehicles used. RVs are built on lorry or coach chassis' and have extremely luxurious interiors, with every facility built in (normally including an on-board generator).

They are extremely large, expensive and luxurious - don't expect to go exploring on European backroads in one of these, as it won't fit. Road tax, fuel costs and insurance will also be considerably higher, as will road tolls.

Making the Choice

Whatever you choose, don't rush into it and make sure you understand the true cost of ownership - including storage (if it is too big for your driveway), insurance, breakdown cover and servicing.

Consider renting a motorhome for a holiday first to see if you like it - a week or two can teach you a lot about what type of motorhome suits you and enables you to try before you buy.

Motorhoming is a great way to travel around the UK and Europe - I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

Viewing a camper can let your heart rule your head so take someone who can give a unbiased opinion, ask about the history the longer it's been with the same owner the better, remember that most coachbuilts are aluminium bodied based on a van chassis so check the the cab lift carpets if possible get underneath and have a good prod around, check the chassis members underneath and while your under, check the floor for signs of rot, especially in the corners, behind the wheel arches and if its got a separate toilet check around the waste pipes. Inside check for any signs of damp ask if it has any leaks no matter how small. Look in all the storage cupboards again for damp especially under seats its not the end of the world if you find some as you have to take into account of the age of the vehicle and the work that needs doing. Check any vent that are to the outside as these do tend to get damp behind them.
Check the appliances ask about if they have been checked and if they work ok net cheap to replace.
Buying off Ebay , If you fancy bidding on a camper this is probably the best place to get a classic camper from over the year there has been at least 10 Newlanders for sale, some needing work, some looking good.
Try and be brief over this way but will give as much advice as I can.

1. Go onto Ebay and  motor forums  If you start here and type various searchers, such as scams, campers or the model you are looking for, this is where usually people come who have been conned or had problems, most of the scams that are used are easy to spot when you know what to look for, so starting here will give you a good idea also there are some very knowledgeable people on there who are usually more the willing to offer their advice to help someone new to Ebay.
2. So you have searched Ebay itself and found you ideal van only its a long way to view, WELL VIEW IT, and really if you can't don't buy, I know I did and will probably do it again but I always go and collect knowing I have AA cover and will only buy if its a runner and is taxed and moted. Over the years I have bought about 8 vehicles off Ebay 2 where real bargains, 4 where as described at a decent price, 2 needed work so over 8 years haven't lost anything, but probably haven't made anything.
3. Read the listings I know this is obvious but you would be amazed when I have sold things on Ebay how many emails or phone calls I have received asking questions that are clearly stated in the description.
4. Check the persons feedback, how long they have been registered, If their phone number isn't in the listing then email and ask for it, then you can ring to ask  about the history of the camper and Any faults not listed, again people do forget little things that all cost money if you plan to repair, and if you have a long way to travel will stop you having a wasted journey.
5. Right you have viewed the camper and decided on a price you want to bid by looking in auto trader, local paper, specialist magazines and of course completed listings on ebay. Put your maximum bid on switch the computer off and wait for the email to say you have won it. No seriously though just don't get into a bidding war same principle you should use if you ever attend an auction.
    

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Last modified: 04/04/08